Ong Ang Bangkok - a guide to street art after dark
Khlong Ong Ang Art Walking Street (try saying that five times in a row!) is hours of fun wrapped up into two blocks along the canal, just past Chinatown! Fairy lights and colorful bunting zig-zag across the canal lighting up countless murals by some of Thailand's best street artists.
Due to Covid, the street musicians, performance artists, food stalls, market, and water sports (do at your own risk!) are missing, but it's still a great place to explore. I've been a few times in recent months and enjoyed having it all to myself, but I look forward to experiencing it in full swing when Bangkok is out of lockdown. In addition to street food (generally not plant-based friendly), you can find some sit-down Indian and Bhutanese restaurants at one end.
I recommend going at sunset or slightly after. Take your time to explore the dark alleys, and discover magical surprises where you least expect them.
In 1783 this was a flourishing pottery market in a historically Indian and Chinese community. The 'ATM SPRAY X Ong Ang STREET ART' project worked with some fantastic Thai street artists to revitalize the area. The murals along the canal tell the story from past to present in the artists' unique styles.
I wish I could post each piece of street art for you, but I'll only highlight my super favorites. Then, head over to my Instagram to see even more!
Alex Face is a Bangkok legend, his three-eyed child dressed in a furry rabbit costume, inspired by his daughter Mardi, is the pièce de résistance. A bouquet of flowers bursts from her head, and butterflies flutter about as she prepares to meditate. Easily one of my favorite pieces in all of Bangkok!
Art Alley is a narrow psychedelic trip of reflective spray paint and black light. An after-sunset delight brought to you by the creative minds from Happening Group, a collective of Thai artists. Definitely wander around until you find it!
The Happening Group also painted a long wall with memorable scenes of everyday life in Khlong Ong Ang, from pottery makers to carpet and flower sellers, of past homes built over the canal to the modern homes we see today. These pieces are really touching, a loving way to stay connected to the community, as gentrification sometimes displaces that connection.
I am infatuated with lanterns, and lucky for us, there is a sneaky alley filled with the soft red glow of prosperity and abundance. Walk to the end of the passage to find more street art, a Polaroid corner, and a hidden photo op.
This piece by Bigdel will have you choosing sides? Are you team superhero or team villain? The wall comes alive with a boom, bamm, pow, as a sinister laugh echoes from the dark shadows.
The corner piece by Oh Futon, is bright and bold. If you're a fan of her work, you'll recognize her trademark large eyes and super stylish design. This was the first piece I saw from a block away, and it's a showstopper!
The eye-catching musical misfits from Bonus Tmc will put you in a dancing mood. I love the geometric patterns and thick fluid lines that carry you down the wall like a musical score.
The portraits from Mauy + MSV will hypnotize you as you look deep into their soulful eyes.
There is so much more to see when you arrive. I hope you love it as much as I do. Keep reading and I will give you an itinerary to go from afternoon to evening!
Hours: Khlong Ong Ang Art Walking Street is open 24 hours a day, but the street comes alive on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from 4pm-10pm and will resume once lockdown restrictions are lifted. It is a 5-minute walk from Sam Yot MRT Station.
I highly recommend going now, so you can admire all the pieces without the congestion of people and street vendors obstructing the art.
I'll include a map at the end of the article.
Turn it into an art adventure!
Malee Brew + Bloom
Before going to Ong Ang Art Walking street, I highly recommend a coffee at Malee Brew + Bloom, a cafe-flower-exhibition-flower shop. First off, the building is perfection. You must absolutely cross the street and revel in its splendor.
And second, they constantly change the flower exhibition on the first floor. So you could enter an enchanting garden of lilies carpeting the floor, or tall vases filled with small delicate purple flowers and a ceiling draped with forest ferns that lightly tickle you as you frolic toward the counter for a coffee.
I ordered a Bangkok Sunshine (espresso, peach, soda water) then walked up the spiral staircase to the second floor, which is as romantic as you'd imagine a minimalist flower cafe to be. My drink arrived with a dramatic flair, over dry ice, creating an unpredictable floating cloud at my table!
Before you leave, go to the third floor. It's an unfinished greenhouse, thriving with plants, and has excellent views of the area.
Hours: Open 11am-7pm, Tuesday to Friday. 10am-7pm, Saturday to Sunday. Closed on Monday.
Nightingale Olympic Department Store
Next, let's walk 4 minutes to the first and oldest shopping mall in Bangkok. This place is a wonderland of curiosity. Step into a time machine with relics proudly on display, but probably not for sale. If you're into mannequins with retro hairstyles and ghastly makeup, you'll love this forgotten 85-year-old treasure.
I was having a grand time playing with the window reflections, as taking photos inside is frowned upon.
Hours: Open 9am-5:30pm, Monday to Saturday. Closed on Sunday.
The last stop is Khlong Ong Ang, the highlight of this article, a 5-minute walk down the street. I'm obsessed with the buildings in this area, so when you're walking around, be present, look up, and appreciate the old-world charm.
Hot Tip: If I were doing this art adventure, I'd get to Malee Brew + Bloom around 4:30/5pm. Take photos, have a coffee, then explore Nightingale Olympic Department Store, giggle while taking pictures of the window display, and finally head to Ong Ang Art Walking Street for dinner, awesome street art, and lots more photos!
Let me know which piece of street art is your favorite in the comments below!
